Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Today's Shave...


~ Today's Shave, September 22nd, 2010 ~

Cream/Soap: C.O Bigelow/Proraso
Brush: Hoffritz Vintage Pure Badger
Razor: Muhle R89
Blade: Derby
Balm: Very Sexy for Men

At times our decisions are controlled entirely by emotion and the recent purchase of this Muhle, model R89 open comb razor qualifies.. it was based purely on aesthetics.  In fact, the reviews from users were pretty clear that the shave was nasty aggressive.  Yet, I liked the lines of it.  

Monday, September 20, 2010

Simplifying things a bit - Part II

I am feeling a overwhelmed..

What was supposed to be a cost cutting process has turned into various strains of Acquisition Disorder...  Razor Acquisition Disorder (RAD), Shave Brush Acquisition Disorder (SBAD), Blade Acquisition Disorder (BAD), Soap and Creams (SCAD)...   and a recent inventory, though not entirely complete, has confirmed that some drastic steps need to be taken...

I am beginning to formulate a plan.  What follows is my initial brain dump...

Friday, September 17, 2010

How smooth is Smooth enough?

I am planning to shave with the straight razor this weekend; it will be my second weekend with it and today's shave is the setup for tomorrow.  I decided to go with just a two-pass shave today so I enter tomorrow mornings routine with a bit of a beard to work with.

While my typical shave is a three-pass affair with some touch-up (First pass is With The growth Grain-WTG, Second is Across The Grain- XTG and the final goes Against The Grain-ATG ), today I skipped the ATG pass.  A three pass shave usually leaves me as smooth as a baby's butt and a two pass, though far better than what I could get from any cartridge, leaves me with a great smooth face...not quite BBS, but a damn fine shave none the less...

Not the first time I have done a two-pass shave, mind you...  What I find, quite consistently, is that the two pass gives me an absolutely wonderful shave and I wonder if chasing BBS is all that necessary...

Now, this morning I used a Bluebird Hi-Stainless Double Edge blade in the iKon Open Comb razor.. the blade is on day five so it isn't the sharpest thing, and the open comb is a notch more aggressive than other closed comb razors so by all rights, this shave should have bordered on miserable, yet the shave is just superb.  I threw away the Bluebird blade...probably had a few more shaves in it...

Note to self... iKon Deluxe Open Comb, with Bluebird blade...  Grade-A shave!!

Today's Shave...


~ Today's Shave, September 17th, 2010 ~

Cream/Soap: Tom's of Maine, Natural Mint
Brush: Penworks, Silvertip Badger
Razor: Frankenrazor...Hoffritz Slant head on Bob's Razor Works Ultra Lite, anodized Black
Blade: Feather
Balm: Kiehl's

The slant bar razor has a safety bar that is curved rather than straight which, in tandem with a matching curved cap plate bends the blade in an strong curve.  This presents the blade to the beard in an angle which results in a shearing action as the blade passes the hair.  The result...a very close shave, though one needs to be extra careful when new to it.

The Slant is one of my favorite razors and I look forward to using it.

Tom's of Maine just discontinued this fabulous all natural, domestic shave cream.  It gets a bad rap because it lacks some of the glitz of the imported stuff, but I love it and have a few tubes in inventory.
Nikon D3, 70-200 f/2.8 VR, mounted on a Berlebach Mini Tabletop tripod with RRS BH55L ballhead.  Nikon Speedlights fired remotely via Radio Popper triggers. 

Noxema...can you use it as a shave goo?

Years ago, my uncle Eddie mentioned that he used Noxzema Face Cleanser as his shave goo of choice.  Ironically, he had a beard for nearly all of his adult life and possibly more ironically..I followed his lead and used the menthol rich stuff for years.

Truth told, it didn't lather well..  No..it didn't lather at all.  But it was pretty slick by old standards, had a great cool menthol blast on my skin and smelled great to boot.

Last evening while stumbling through a feeble explanation of why I was walking out of the bathroom with my camera in hand, my wife said my face smelled like Noxzema.  I had been practicing building a lather with a new brush and creating some images of the it pre and post bloom.  The scent she picked up on was actually P.160 Tipo Mornido, an Italian semi-soft soap with the sweet scent of Amaretto.

I guess the inquisition she held was warranted...coming out of the bathroom, after a longer than usual stay, with a camera in my hands and.. smelling of Amaretto...

Anyway....

Noxzema sucks for wet-shaving. Confirmed.  As far as lather...it still doesn't.  Not a bubble.  No matter how much I whipped it with a brush.  Slick...not enough to tame a Feather blade. Sure it still has that menthol kick and I love the nostalgic scent, but for shaving...not too good.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Suggestions for your first Double Edge razor

I've received a few emails about which razor is best for a beginner and where to find one.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, YMMV.  What works for me, might suck for you so Your Milage May Vary when it comes to what you consider best.  But that being said, there are some guidelines for the beginner..

Keep in mind, I am still a beginner with but a few months of wet-shaving under my belt.  This possibly makes me a perfect resource as I can merely parrot what I am learning as I learn it from the more experienced folks.

Let's start with the options for the men..

This is a nearly endless list guys.  You'll have to sort through some of this on your own because your price range is a factor, but you can bet that spending more doesn't necessarily get you a better shave.  In fact, the cheaper options can yield an awesome shave.  Take the 1954 Gillette Super Speed I bought second hand and featured a few days ago in my Shaving on the Cheap post.  Amazingly, this thing cost me under $16 and it's "vintage".  It is an excellent whisker whacker; lightweight and well balanced.  Easy to load with it's top opening silo doors.  It's quite mild as far as DE's go, and can be found in relative abundance on ebay, and at flea markets.

Also priced at the low end is the Feather Portable..  It's super light weight and lacks some of the glitz other razors have, but that makes it no less of a good shaver and at $19 it cheap enough.. and new.

The Weishi Safety Razor has a decent following.. also under $20 and with an all metal construction.

If you fancy something a little nicer, Merkur has a line of double edge razors that is sure to please.  There are a few different handles to choose.  Models feature either a standard head, open comb design, the more aggressive slant bar heads as well as the Progress and Progress XL, which allow you to adjust just own mild or aggressive your shave is.

Want to step up to some real luxury??  Consider the Pils all stainless steel double edge safety razor.  It's got a real futuristic look and is reported to be one of the best DE's money can buy...but save your coins, this baby comes in at almost $250!

Mentioning Futur-istic, the Merkur Futur is a wonderful razor, albeit less conventional in looks and design.  I have one in the satin finish and love it!  It's adjustable and quite large compared to other DE's but it's most unique characteristic is the sound it makes.  You can actually hear the whiskers being sliced off...it has to be heard to be believe.  It's adjustability makes it a great first razor, but be fore-warned, navigating the big head of this razor around your nose and upper lip is a real challenge!

If I had to pick just one razor to recommend it would have to be the Merkur Progress.  It's been around for many many years and is likely one of the most popular adjustable razors.  Since you can dial your choice of blade exposure (less blade exposed = milder shave, more blade = more aggressive shave) it's a razor you can grow with and it's solid construction means you'll likely be passing it on to a future generation.  It's priced middle of the road at about $55.  A limited number of these razors go through a high level of modification to tighten the tolerances in the adjustment system and replace the cheesy plastic TTO knob... the result is The Mergress.  I shave with a Mergress XL which has a longer handle...I have zero complaints and if pressed could live with just this razor.

I haven't scratched the surface of what's available and it's tough to go wrong if you stick to a regular safety razor.

Ladies...stay tuned.  I have some recommendations for you as well!

Today's Shave




~ Today's Shave, September 16th, 2010 ~

Cream/Soap: The Body Shop (TBS), Macca Root cream
Brush: Franks Shave, Finest Badger
Razor: 1954 Superspeed
Blade: Derby
Balm: Kiehl's

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Limit the images you display to a small handful of your absolute best work..


So you have one of those shooting moments where you can do no wrong.  It's compete with the proverbial planetary alignment and you come home with gigabytes of the perfect image...the same perfect image...captured over and over...on high-speed burst, at 9 frames a second.   While my first thought is that you might want to be more selective with the images you are making (know when NOT to push the shutter release), storage is cheap these days and buried in the volumes of images are subtle changes in light, expression and detail that might make the wear and tear on your camera's shutter worth it after all..

However....

You don't need to share every one of those images.  Doing so will surely numb your audience.  Remember Chevy Chase in European Vacation?  Caught in the traffic circle round-about passing Big Ben...And Parliament..


What happens when you come across a web gallery or slide presentation with all images having a sameness?  Fast forward please!  PLEASE!  Run and hide!  Quick..I'm nodding off..  am I drooling?

Edit your work with ruthless precision and display only a small portion... the absolute best stuff. 

I just shot a Sweet Sixteen party for a client.  942 images.  The first cull got that down to half the number of images.  The second cull halved it again.  I am working down to the nifty fifty to send the client and then I'll get it down to under a dirty dozen to  upload to my website.  You can look at just so many 16 year kids dancing with feather boa's, Risky Business Wayfarers and...well you get the idea.. 

There's Big Ben, and Parliament...

Today's Shave...

I've been keeping a log of each days shave..  I don't post each one here, maybe I will..

~ Today's Shave, September 15th, 2010 ~

Cream/Soap: C.O Bigelow/Proraso
Brush: Franks Shave, Finest Badger
Razor: iKon Deluxe, OC / Bulldog Handle
Blade: BlueBird
Balm: Kiehl's

This turned out to be a wonderful shave and it's simplicity is what prompted my project of cleaning out my shave den.  The Frank Shaving Brush is just awesome and a bargain.  It's  a Pure Badger hair brush with a well made acrylic handle that cost all of $9.  C.O Bigelow/Proraso is a famous cream used in barber shops world wide.  It's got a wonderful menthol/eucalyptus burst and is super slick.  The iKon razor and Bluebird blade are a great combination and at this point my shaves are super smooth and completely irritation free.  Ironically, the soft spots on neck, either side of the adam's apple, that had given me trouble with irritation for my entire life, are now the most enjoyable spot to shave..


Nikon D3, 28-70 f/2.8 lens.  Mounted on a Burlhbach Ash table top tripod with a Really Right Stuff ballhead.  Nikon speedlights fired via Radio Poppers, through Wescott 43" umbrella's.

Simplifying things a bit - Part I

What was supposed to be an attempt at cost cutting... isn't...  and this wet-shaving thing is easily becoming a money pit.  I have to take a close look at what I have, what I use and what I am just storing in an attempt to clear out some of the excess and simplify...